The Real Oregon

Most people come here to Malheur National Wildlife Refuge in spring, summer or fall. They don’t know what they’re missing by skipping the remote vastness of eastern Oregon’s Harney County during the months when the landscape is brilliant with cold and almost completely empty of people.

We’ve been making regular winter trips here for the last few years and love it. There is nothing quite as bracing as a winter dawn at Malheur, whether it’s 3 degrees on a sharp clear morning or 15 degrees and foggy.

And, yes, there are birds, even in the most challenging weather. We found a flock of Bohemian Waxwings next to the Blitzen River at Page Springs Campground — which was, inexplicably, completely empty on a beautiful (OK, chilly) weekend day.

Coyotes serenaded us day and night, and we saw half a dozen Great Horned Owls in the willows by the river — all cold enough to sit quietly while we watched and photographed them. We stayed, as usual, at the delightful Malheur Field Station, right inside the refuge itself.

Photos on this page are all courtesy Noah Strycker. mebeli

We’re not, as a rule, that fond of golf resorts. But Sunriver — outside Bend near Mount Bachelor — was so Christmasy during the holidays we had a ball staying there and skiing for a few days. Fresh snow blanketed the desert and it felt like a true winter wonderland.

The lodge was thoroughly decorated and even had a room full of gingerbread houses. How cool is that?