You couldn’t come up with a town that’s sweeter or smaller if you tried. At the southern end of Malheur National Wildlife Refuge and next door to Steens Mountain, the tiny town — it’s named after Pete French, the cattle man murdered near what’s now the NWR headquarters in 1892, and his partner Hugh Glenn — has a school, an historic hotel and a store that was pretty good until it was bought by Californians who yuppified it to the point you couldn’t actually buy cereal there — just Native American and New Age doodads. The store is closed again, and maybe a sensible owner will come along soon and put it back into business.