The Coast on The Real Oregon

A couple strolls on the Oregon coast

If you’re of a California frame of mind, consider this: The Oregon coast is not the beach. It’s not even close. The beach is sunshine, warm water, rock ‘n’ roll and girls in bikinis. The coast is weather: wind, rain, fog and more wind. You wear your parka to the Oregon coast even in summer. You’re more likely to find a sunny day here, in fact, in December than in July. Only once in more than two decades in Oregon have we managed to lie out on a towel and sunbathe on the Oregon coast, and even then it wasn’t very comfortable.

So why come? Well, there’s that fog: mysterious, soothing, almost mystical some days the way it covers over the pounding of the ocean. There’s the sense of quiet and isolation you can find strolling on a deserted beach. There are a few good restaurants, though not necessarily the ones you might expect.

The Oregon coast is more crowded the farther north you go, and gets better the farther south you go. Our favorite spot is Charleston, a small and unpretentious fishing town on the south coast near the ocean port of Coos Bay, which has few big ships anymore calling at its deepwater harbor.

If you find yourself in a bigger town — Florence, say, or Newport — have lunch at Mo’s and enjoy a bit of Oregon pop culture. If you’ve got a big honking RV, hook up at Honeyman state park near Florence.

Read on for more info about the Oregon Coast:

Gorse attacks

Tuesday, June 5th, 2007

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Gorse — kind of rhymes with “curse” — got its start on the Oregon Coast courtesy of Bandon founder George Bennet, an Irish nobleman who came here in the 1870s and brought with him the flowery, spiny, ultra inflammable plant. He probably thought it reminded him of Winnie the Pooh, a book that hadn’t even been written yet.

Had he seen further into the future, he would have left it home. Gorse is beautiful but unstoppable. It is the kudzu of the Northwest, though not nearly as fast growing. It has bright yellow flowers in the spring and spines like sewing machine needles year-round.

It also has resin so rich that you can hold a match to a green leaf and light it.

In the last century and a half, gorse has expanded like a weed up and down the coast and has even headed inland. So thick and impenetrable is the weed that an airplane once crash landed in the gorse near Bandon Airport; the pilot was all right but a bulldozer was required to reach him.

It’s essentially unremovable. Use any method short of a thermonuclear blast to cut, chop, poison or scrape it away, and it will be back like hair next year.

And, of course, it burns like gasoline. In 1936, the Bandon gorse caught fire. The conflagration was so intense the the fire department finally gave up and sent its firefighters home to rescue their families. Half the town burned to the ground, and 11 people died.

Breakfast in Florence (yes, there is such a thing)

Monday, June 4th, 2007

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One of the challenges of staying overnight in Florence’s Old Town is: no breakfast.

Mo’s isn’t open. What places there are, aren’t too inspiring.

FInally we found a great one one. Just a short walk up the hill from Old Town, on Highway 101, is Nature’s Corner Cafe & Market, where the food is decent even if it is organic, the service is friendly, and they serve full breakfast, lunch and dinner despite the coffee-only sound of the name.

Walk up Second Street, on your right just past the bridge, and it’s right there; you don’t even have to cross the highway.

185 Highway 101; 541-997-0900.