Eugene is, the
story goes, where the '60s came to die. Or to retire, anyway. You've
got the Oregon Country Fair here with its 50-something hippies and the
sad remnants of the Deadheads still looking for something to do. Eugene
is, for the most part, an ugly city with little or no interesting architecture
to make up for the fact that the town fathers and mothers redeveloped
its downtown in the 1970s, making a pedestrian shopping mall that finished
off what was left of the city's once elegant core.
There are a
few highlights for visitors. The University of Oregon is here, along
with its Jordan Schnitzer Museum of Art. The Hult Center for the Performing
Arts is a beautiful building, even if the acoustics are mediocre. And
the new Wayne Morse Federal Courthouse that's to open downtown in fall
2006 is by Thom Mayne, the badboy architect of Morphosis, with a big
art project by Manhattan art star Matthew Ritchie.
Eugene is also
a pleasant place to live and raise a family, which is why many people
live there. It's a small city not too far removed from the natural world
that makes up so much of Oregon.