You couldn't
come up with a town that's sweeter or smaller if you tried. At the southern
end of Malheur National Wildlife Refuge
and next door to Steens Mountain, the tiny town -- it's named after
Pete French, the cattle man murdered near what's now the NWR headquarters
in 1892, and his partner Hugh Glenn -- has a school, an historic hotel
and a store that was pretty good until it was bought by Californians
who yuppified it to the point you couldn't actually buy cereal there
-- just Native American and New Age doodads. The store is closed again,
and maybe a sensible owner will come along soon and put it back into
business.