Oregon's vast
cowboy country, which covers the eastern two-thirds of the state on
the far side of the Cascades from
the familiar green and wet west side, has some of the biggest and most
isolated ranches you can find.
The ZX Ranch
near Paisley, owned lately by Boise potato magnate J.R. Simplot, has
been said to be the biggest contiguous cattle operation in the country,
at a million acres or so -- that's about a third the size of Death Valley
National Park.
Other well known
ranches on the east side include the Alvord, which sits at the base
of Steens Mountain in splendid isolation;
the White Horse, even farher off the beaten path; and Roaring Springs
Ranch, near -- yes -- a noisy spring south of Frenchglen.
Despite their
pickup trucks and small airplanes, the ranches maintain a 19th century
lifestyle in the 21st century. The cowboy cuture here is strongly influenced
by Spanish vaqueros, and the common term for cowboy in eastern Oregon,
as a result, is "buckaroo." Ranch kids grow up working hard
and knowing how to be polite. And the economics of raising cattle makes
it all but impossible for the family ranches to survive without massive
federal subsidy, sometimes dismissed as corporate welfare, in the form
of low-cost grazing on public land.
Respect the
fact that ranches are private property and always seek permission before
entering private land.